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August 2007 Archives

August 1, 2007

Light Meter - Lisa: The Biography

bio%20pic.JPG

"I don't know if it's a boy or a girl but it's a photographer," said the doctor to my mom as he was delivering me. Alright, alright maybe he actually said 'redhead' and not 'photographer' but my line is funnier.

At age 6, my parents gave me a Yogi Bear 35mm camera and the love of picture taking was instant. I began posing family, friends and neighbors right away. There's some proof around the house that I got my hands on a Polaroid as well. While growing up I studied album covers taking careful notice of how people were arranged, light and shadows. The funny thing is that I wasn't even all that aware that what I was doing was shall we say, odd, for a kid and later a teenager. I'll speed this up a bit, at 20 I was a full-time staff photographer for several local papers and a graduate of New England School of Photography.

Disney as a company was a part of my life like most kids. My parents took my brother and I to Walt Disney World and Disneyland a couple of times. We went to movies, watched TV shows, and listened to soundtracks. In my late teens and early 20's I started tagging along with my dad on business trips to Orlando and taking vacations with friends.

The real Disney fanatic in me sprung to life in 1998 when I spent the Summer in southern California. If my memory serves me right, I only went to the park once or twice back then and the fact that Disneyland was a mere 15 minutes away was torture. From my friend's driveway I use to watch the fireworks. Just 6 months later I moved to CA. With a So Cal Resident Annual Pass in hand and friends to play with, I hit the parks weekly if not more. It was our hangout where we felt safe and could be our true dorky selves. Sometimes we did nothing more than have dinner and walk around. My favorite thing to do was to sit in Town Square and watch the characters interact with guests.

As for Walt Disney World, I started buying annual passes in 2004. With an abundance of information online here on AllEars.Net, and other sites I absorbed the material like a sponge and joined a few communities. It's amazing how the Internet can bring people with a common interest together from various states, let alone countries.

Inbetwixt all of my photography gigs I've accumulated more than 5 years experience in retail camera sales. Deb asked me to assist those of you who have and those who are looking to purchase point and shoot cameras, including high-end models. I'll guide you through the lingo, what to look for and how to get better results from what you have. Deb, thanks for inviting me to be a part of Picture This!. Feel free to ask me any questions except when the 3 o'clock parade is.

August 3, 2007

Photographic Innoventions: Shutter Speeds and You

Shutter speed is the time for which the shutter is held open during the taking of a photograph to allow light to reach the image sensor in a digital camera. A fast shutter speed will freeze the subject but needs plenty of light. A slower shutter speed needs less light and a more stationary subject or will cause image blur. However, you can use this to your advantage, as this article will show you.


Expedition Everest explorers emerging from the mountain. © Scott Thomas Photography 2007
Nikon D70/18-200VR, 1/800s, f/7.1, 400 ISO, -0.3 EC, 135mm Focal Length

In the mid-afternoon Florida sun, it is easy for our cameras to select fast shutter speeds. From the observation area of Animal Kingdom's Expedition Everest ride, I wanted to freeze the ride vehicle and guests as it came out of the mountain by using a shutter speed of 1/800 of a second. By doing this, you can see their expressions and body language as they see the plunge before them. One guest in the lead car is even video taping! To capture fast action, the faster the shutter speed the better to make the images sharp and clear.


The Beatniks entertaining guests in Disney's Animal Kingdom. © Scott Thomas Photography 2007
Nikon Coolpix 995, 1/30s, f/7.5, 200 ISO

When I came upon The Beatniks as I walked towards Dinoland in Disney's Animal Kingdom, I saw an opportunity to show not only their colorful costumes but their energy by using a shutter speed of 1/30th of a second. Photographs record still images, however, with the creative use of slower shutter speeds, a photograph can convey movement. The trick is not getting so much movement the subject is unrecognizable. The other trick is being able to keep your camera still while making the photo. I talked about how using stablizing lens technology can help in a previous entry. You can practice at home and test how slow a shutter speed you can use and still get acceptably sharp images. To get really long exposures slower than 1/15 of a second, you will need to either anchor yourself against something like a wall or pole, use a tripod or place your camera on a flat surface. At Walt Disney World, I've found the tops of garbage cans to be particularly useful.

Quick Tip: To take control of your shutter speed, set your camera to Shutter Priority Mode. In this way, you set the shutter speed and the camera calculates the aperture or f/stop for you. Be careful the aperture will give you the results you are looking for.

August 6, 2007

Focus on Disney World - Where in the World? #3

Answer to Where in the World challenge #2:
Pinocchio Statue
Copyright © 2007 Barrie Brewer, Nikon D50/18-200VR, 0.002s shutter, f5.3

This bronze sculpture of Pinocchio and Jiminy Cricket is one of several character statues in the garden in front of the Cinderella's castle at the Magic Kingdom.

Quick Tip: Giving a photo a shallow depth of field will really make your subject stand out from the background. I set my aperture to f/5.3 to make the flowers behind this statue look blurry. You can get a similar effect by using the portrait setting on your camera.

This week's challenge: Where in the world is this?
lcm crop

August 8, 2007

Light Meter: Batteries 101

There are a variety of things to consider when shopping for a digital point and shoot camera. In my experience I have found that people make the choices that are best for them and that's the right thing to do. If you do your research, without making yourself crazy, and ask a few friends what they like/dislike about their cameras you will be a better educated consumer. Let's get you started on the road of knowledge.

Batteries: Positive and Negative (get it? a ha ha hmm)

A digital point and shoot will either run on AA batteries or a lithium-ion battery. Some cameras will allow you to substitute a CRV3 lithium or lithium-ion for 2 AA batteries. AA's are what we're most familiar with. We use them in toys, walkmans, discmans, and those water bottle/fans that Disney sells. Well, I'm assuming they take AA maybe they use AAA batteries. I'm too cheap to buy one. Moving on, lithium-ions are what is in your cell phone. It's that square or rectangular flat battery that keeps your phone powered so you can talk till the cows come home from a rollicking game of bingo.

I've compiled a list of pluses and minuses to both types of power. Oh, and before you make your decision based on these lists, next time I'll go over the 5, count 'em, 5 common types of AAs.

AA

Pluses:
** Easy to find in gift shops, drug stores, and even gas stations should you forget to pack them or they wear out
** Most cameras take 2 and most chargers will power 4 at a time. This gives you a spare set ready for action
** Rechargeables will allow an average of 250-300 shots per charge

Minuses:
** Alkalines can last as little as 20 minutes
** Spend more money on alkaline and lithium

Plus and Minus: Chargers can take anywhere from 15 minutes to 8 hours, depending on the charger and strength of batteries.

Lithium-ion

Pluses
** Available in camera stores and electronic stores
** Average battery will take 400 shots per charge
** Chargers are compact


Minuses

** Average manufacturer's price is $30-60 for a spare. Off-brand lists for about $20-40
** Like your cell phone battery, some last longer than others
hand%20batteries.JPG
Lithium-ions (left and center) come in a variety of shapes, sizes, and colors. They are also designed to work with specific cameras. AA's are always the same size but are either alkaline, lithium, oxyhydroxide, NiCad or NiMH.

August 10, 2007

Photographic Innoventions: Light Sensitivity

Click for Larger Image. Copyright © Scott Thomas Photography 2007
Spaceship Earth. Copyright © Scott Thomas Photography 2007
Nikon D70/18-200VR, 1/10s, f/5.6, 1600 ISO, -1 EC, 135mm Focal Length

Many people have sent in questions about how to get good low-light and night photography pictures at Walt Disney World. The key is to get enough light to your digital camera's sensor to record a well exposed image. You can do this a couple of ways. Use a tripod and increase the shutter speed or increase your camera's sensitivity to light. The higher the ISO setting, the more sensitive the sensor becomes and less light needed to record an image. Instead of using a tripod at ISO 100, you can dial in a higher setting like 400, 800 or 1600 and get a faster shutter speed. Thus, letting you hand hold in low light or in getting fast action shots like themepark rides, children playing or sporting events.

Epcot's Spaceship Earth is a favorite subject of many photographers during the day but, at night, the geodesic sphere takes on a surreal quality. To successfully show this, I increased my ISO setting to 1600. This is the highest my camera, a Nikon D70, can go. There are digital cameras today that go as high as 3200 ISO. I still needed a steady hand, propped elbows on a fence and a vibration reduction lens to shoot at 1/10s. To increase my chances of getting a great photo, I took a series of them with this being the best of the lot.

Shooting at such high ISO settings does bring about an increase in noise. Noise looks like color speckles and is noticed in uniform colors like the black sky in the Spaceship Earth photo. While it is a concern in digital photography, noise is a lot less apparent then with high ISO films. Those would show large grain in the processed prints. There are many software products available to reduce any noise which does creep into our photos.

Obviously, the less noise the better so, the lower the ISO, the finer the images your camera will produce. Check out your camera's manual to see how you can change the ISO and how high and low the settings are.

Quick Tip: Some digital cameras have an Auto ISO Setting. My Nikon D70 does and it allows me to let the camera pick the best ISO for the available light. This comes in handy as the light changes throughout the day into night or going in and out of buildings and rides at Walt Disney World.

August 13, 2007

Focus on Disney World - Wolfgang Puck Cafe

Wolfgang Puck's at Sunrise
Copyright © 2007 Barrie Brewer, Nikon D50/18-200VR, 0.002s shutter, f5.6

It doesn't take many hamburgers, funnel cakes and chicken fingers for me to start craving the fresh "California Cuisine" offered at Wolfgang Puck Café at Downtown Disney's Westside. I've never been disappointed with a meal that I've had there. On my last trip I had a very tasty broiled halibut that was cooked to perfection. I also like their pizzas and Sushi.

In addition to their regular dining room and outdoor seating, Wolfgang's has an open kitchen with counter seating and a sushi bar. I often go to Disney World on solo trips to take photos and I find Wolfgang Puck's a very comfortable place to dine alone. It's also one of the restaurants on the Dining Plan.

For a more upscale experience, check out The Dining Room at Wolfgang Puck's (upstairs).

Quick Tip: This photo was taken just as the sun began to rise. The best light for taking photos is at sunrise and sunset. During the middle of the day the sun is often too harsh and can wash out the colors in your photograph. When the sun is low in the sky it gives a soft glow to your photos that is very pleasing. Even if you're not really a morning person you can still get great morning shots at Disney World. This was taken from the balcony of my room at Saratoga Springs while I was still in my jammies!

August 15, 2007

Light Meter: Batteries 102

I previously went over the differences between AA batteries and lithium-ion batteries. This time around I'll touch upon the 5 common types of AA's; American Airlines, Aristocratic Aardvarks, Alan Alda... Making sure that you're paying attention.

Disposable

Alkaline - Bar none these are the ones we've all used. They're easy to find in your local supermarket and wholesale warehouses among many other locals. While they may be the most common they don't last very long. Alkaline batteries actually lose power sitting around waiting for you to buy them and while sitting idle in electronic devices. My recommendation is to only use them in a pinch. A 4-pack averages $5.00.

Oxy nickel hydroxide - What? I know, I know...most people haven't heard of this species. It's a new cross-breed of throw away batteries. They're not as easy to find as they should be. In comparison to alkalines, oxy nickel hyroxide batteries last twice as long. A 4-pack goes for around $6.00 and are avaliable in electronics stores as well as discount department store chains.

http://www.panasonic.com/consumer_electronics/oxyride_ms/flash.asp

http://www.duracell.com/gna/powerpix/faq.htm

Lithium - Energizer is producing these and advertising them everywhere. These powerful little guys last 5-7 times as long as alkalines. In fact they can outlast rechargeables however once they're kaput, they're kaput. Look for them in camera shops, hardware stores, and online. A 4-pack costs $15.00.

Rechargeable

Nickel-cadmium (NiCd) - An alternative to the previously listed batteries are rechargeables. Since they can be used over and over again, you'll save money in the longrun. NiCd's are a great option in this regard. There are a variety of companies making them. Ideally they are for those who use their cameras often because these batteries can develop problems if they are not properly discharged before recharging. A 4-pack of AA's with a charger sells at $20 -30.00.

Nickel-metal hyrdride (NiMH) - As more and more consumers are purchasing their 2nd, 3rd or even 4th digital camera they've learned that NiMH batteries are the way to go. Unlike NiCd's, they can withstand random charging . Available for purchase nearly everywhere you find alkalines, a set of 4 can be bought for $10.00 or with a charger for $15-40.00. Also, there's another breed elbowing it's way into town. These are ready-to-use AA's made by Sanyo and Rayovac among others. Typically they cost $12 for a 4-pack.


Important things to remember:

Never mix battery types in a camera.
Store batteries in a cool dry place. They are perishable; extreme heat or cold can ruin them.
Don't attempt to charge alkaline, lithium or oxy nickel hyroxide batteries.
New NiCd's and NiMH's need to be charged overnight before their first use.
Don't leave your charger plugged in for an excessive amount of time.
Always follow the manufacturer's instructions.

August 17, 2007

Photographic Innoventions: Dialing in Digital Exposure


Negative Exposure Compensation of -0.3 EV.
© Scott Thomas Photography 2007
Nikon D70/18-200VR, 1/125s, f5.6, 200 ISO

Positive Exposure Compensation of +0.3 EV.
© Scott Thomas Photography 2007
Nikon D70/18-200VR, 1/50s, f5.6, 200 ISO

Exposure Compensation allows you to adjust the exposure measured by the camera's light meter and telling the camera to allow more light in (positive exposure compensation) or less light in (negative exposure compensation). On your digital SLR camera, look for a +/- button to press to adjust exposure compensation. By making it negative, zero or postive in 1/3 (0.3) or 1/2 (0.5) intervals, you "dial" in the exposure for the photograph. As you change the exposure compensation, your camera will change it's shutter speed or aperture. Sometimes, even both, as you alter how the camera's light meter is "seeing" the subject you are pointing at.

In the two photos of the Research Station camp taken on the Pangani Forest Exploration Trail in Disney's Animal Kingdom, the one on the left has a -0.3 EV (EV is the standard way of indicating exposure compensation) giving a rich color to the green foliage and detail in the rock face. The shutter speed of 1/125s freezes the waterfall. The photo on the right has a +0.3 EV, see how the contrast is heightened and some of the objects near the front of the tent get "blown out", which means the loss of detail, as the shutter speed decreased to 1/50s. Some of the shadowy areas now have details and the waterfall has a whispy look. The rule of thumb is to expose for the highlights, the brightest part of the scene, which is what I did in the photo on the left.

How do you know which exposure is best? You don't really, you pick the one you like the best. For me, I try not to get any blown out areas in my photos. This is not always possible. I hedge my bets by bracketing the exposures. Bracketing is taking one photo each at a negative compensation, a zero compensation and a postive compensation. Most digital cameras today can be set to auto-bracket and take a series of 3 to 5 photographs in a single shutter release.

Quick Tip: Do you know how much exposure compensation range your camera has? My Nikon D70 can go plus(+) or minus(-) up to 5 stops in 1/3 or 1/2 intervals. Don't be afraid to go as high or low as you need to capture the photograph.

August 19, 2007

Focus on Disney World - Cinderella's Castle

castle
Copyright © 2007 Barrie Brewer, Nikon D50/55-200, 0.769s shutter, f4.8

No doubt you recognize the subject of this photo. Cinderella's Castle at the Magic Kingdom has got to be the most photographed subject in all of Disney World. In fact, I think I recently read that it is the most photographed subject in the entire world. I don't know if that's true or not but I wouldn't be surprised.

Believe it or not, until my trip last December I didn't have a single picture of this famous icon. I happened to be lingering in the park a little past closing and noticed that the castle was changing colors every 20 seconds or so. It looked so beautiful and, except for the lone Photopass photographer, there weren't any other people around. I think I got a photo of nearly every color change. This stark white version ended up being my favorite.

Quick tip: Be careful when framing your photos, especially in the dark. I could just kick myself for cutting off the top spire of the castle in this photo. This was totally operator error on my part but I've also had cameras in the past that consistently produced photos that were cropped more tightly than I thought they were when I framed the shot. Now when I take photos I generally try to frame them so that my subject is just a touch further away from the edge than I really want it to be so that I'm not sorry later. It's much easier to crop out a little extra sky than to try to manufacture something that isn't there!

August 22, 2007

Light Meter: Me and My Macro

You know all those sweet endearing songs about wanting to get close to someone? They're really just metaphors about using the macro setting. No, really, I mean it. What else could they possibly be talking about? Let us explore this feature and all get a little bit closer. C'mon!

Macro-icon.jpg
We'll begin with the icon for the macro setting on your camera. The universal sign for macro is a flower. Most cameras have this identifiable symbol on the 4-way controller on the back of the camera. As camera designs change however, readily available controls are moved to fit below increasingly larger LCD's (screen on back) or disappear entirely and are only obtainable via the camera's main menu.

"So come on baby come on over. Let me be the one to show you." When you press the macro icon, you turn on the function that will allow you to take close-up shots of things that are small, such as flowers and coins.

Then there's the ability to get detail on something larger. For instance, normally you'd take a headshot of your child but with the macro function you can photograph his/her cute little freckled nose. Scrapbookers can go wild and take photos of each part of the face and put them together as a collage. Oh, and one small request, no one tell my mom about the option to photograph freckled noses. That'll be our little secret, OK?

pin%20dig%20mac%20sm.JPG pin%20dangle%20dig%20mac%20sm.JPG
I used the Digital Macro mode (manual setting) on a Canon Powershot SD500 to get the entire pin as well as the dangling piece by itself.

Then I used the auto mode and turned on the macro setting and got this. Although it's a clear photo, I couldn't get as close as I could with the Digital Macro setting.

dangle%20mac%20sm.JPG

pin%20no%20mac.JPG
Just to show you why macro is important, without it the pin looks like this. Blech! Who wants to buy a blob?

So my friends, go out and capture the details in everyday life and as you do you'll say to yourself, "Why do birds suddenly appear every time you are near? Just like me, they long to be close to you."

August 23, 2007

Focus on Disney World - Train Village

day 2 faves (60)
Copyright © 2006 Barrie Brewer, Nikon D50/55-200

With of all the amazing rides and attractions that fill the Disney Parks, it's easy to miss some of the less spectacular displays. Here's one that I always find myself stopping for. Just outside of Germany in the World Showcase area of Epcot is a really cute miniature train village. It's easy to miss this sweet little display if you're trying to fit in as much as you can. But outside of Disney, this village would be an attraction all on its own. The next time you visit Epcot check it out.

Quick Tip: When taking a photo of something close to ground level, including children, try to get as close to the level of your subject as possible. Your pictures will look better if you are not shooting down at your subject. I always find it better to rest one knee on the ground for added stability. Now, if anyone has tips for gracefully getting back up from this position, I'm all ears!

August 24, 2007

Photographic Innoventions: Introducing The Histogram

Click for Larger Image. Copyright © Scott Thomas Photography 2007
Lights, Motors, Action! Extreme Stunt Show explosive finale. © Scott Thomas Photography 2007
Nikon D70/18-200VR, 1/250s, f/8, 200 ISO, 0 EV, 20mm Focal Length

Don't go away! Histograms are not hard to understand. They are a great tool for us digital photographers to know, at a glance, if the picture we just took is well exposed. No more being disappointed when we see the photos on our large computer screens that looked so good on the camera's little LCD. If you are not sure if your camera is able to show a histogram, check its manual.


Simply put, a histogram is a graph that displays how light is distributed in your picture. The left side of the graph represents the shadows (dark areas), while the highlights (light areas) are on the right. Remember bell curves from your old math or statistical classes? Rarely does a histogram from a photo take on the look of a perfect bell curve but the principal is the same. You do not want to see the curve bunch up to either side or get cut off which is referred to as a clipped histogram. A clipped histogram to either the left (dark) or right (light) side is something to be avoided. In the histogram example shown here, while there is a spike on the dark side, it is not clipped and falls off before the edge. The spike can be seen in the dark upper portions of the image.

By taking a photograph and looking at the histogram my camera shows me, I can tell if I have overexposed (histogram pushed to the right side or cut off) portions or all of the image. From there, I can adjust my exposure using the exposure compensation button. I may need to change the ISO setting if the histogram is showing a very underexposed (everything pushed or cut off on the left side of the graph) to increase the sensor's light sensitivity moving the histogram towards the center.

Take this entry's photo from the Disney-MGM Studios Lights, Motors, Action! Extreme Stunt Show. I had to be quick with this shot as the car flu over the ramp faster than I was ready for. Checking the LCD image afterwards, I felt it looked good. Once I saw the well-distributed histogram, I was confident it was good.

As you can tell, the histogram is an excellent way to see if you have the exposure you are looking for quickly and easily.

Further Reading: I highly recommend this article on histograms: Understanding Your Digital Camera's Histogram.

August 29, 2007

Light Meter: PM People Pictures - Beginner

I'm sure that many of you if not all of you have taken photos of your family, friends and/or vampires at night. The lights are low, Cinderella's Castle is basking in the glow of magenta and blue gels. You want to capture the end of a glorious day at the Magic Kingdom. As an excited mom or dad, you tell your offspring to stand there and smile.

Mom: The castle is beautiful. Let me take your picture in front of it.
Teenager: (head tilts back, foot stomps cement) Mommmmmmmmmmmmmmmmm.
Mom: Oh come on, do it for me. It'll be quick.
Teenage: You like already took like a GAZILLION photos.
Mom: I'm glad you're keeping track. Count this as a gazillion and one. Now go stand over there and for crying out loud, try to look happy.
Teenager: Ugh! (stands, gives big cheesy grin). Can we go nooowwwww?

In order to recreate this photographically, I had to improvise. I'm not at Walt Disney World right now so my neighborhood will act as Main Street less the delicious scent of baked goods, throbs of people heading to the monorail, shops, Cast Members and a stunning castle. Please use your imagination. Also, I don't have children of my own so I borrowed my neighbor, Ciara. I loaded her down with props and put her to work. She received no payment for modeling however I wouldn't be surprised if she tried to sneak in with my luggage when I leave for Disneyland in October. (waving) Hi Ciara!

The pictures below were all shot with a Nikon Coolpix 5600. I also used a tripod to show you that they are imperative for night photography. This camera only has Auto ISO and will make it's selection based upon available light. I stood roughly 8 feet away from her.

night%20portrait.JPG

Shot using the Night Portrait setting. night%20portrait%20icon.jpg
The camera slows down the shutter and uses the flash with red eye reduction. You can see a yellow tint caused by the street lamp next to Ciara and she's slightly out of focus. Since the shutter stays open longer in order to allow available light to hit the sensor there's a chance that the photo will be slightly blurred.

night%20landscape.JPG
Shot using the Night Landscape (looks like a building with a moon) setting under the Scene Menu. Again, the camera slows down the shutter but does not use a flash. This mode is designed to shoot scenes not people. You can see that she is extremely yellow and blurry.

night%20auto%20flash.JPG
Shot using Auto Mode (icon is a camera) with the flash on with red eye reduction. Ciara is now sharp and has the proper skin tone. The street behind her is dark.

When you're photographing your loved ones at 11:32 PM and you don't have a tripod with you or a flat surface to place the camera on, use the auto setting with flash. Maybe the castle won't be as bright as you'd like it to be but your kid won't be able to try and tell your parents that you were drinking yourself silly based on blurry photos.

This blog entry is designed to help those whose cameras don't allow for manual control over shutter speed, aperature and/or ISO. It's also for anyone who isn't sure how to use such settings. I will go over advanced night time shooting later. Until then, remember that vampires don't like it when you use a flash.


August 31, 2007

Photographic Innoventions: Virtual Borders

Click for Larger Image. Copyright © Scott Thomas Photography 2007
Cinderella's Castle in the Magic Kingdom. © Scott Thomas Photography 2007
Nikon D70/18-200VR, 1/250s, f/8, 400 ISO, -0.3 EV, 80mm Focal Length

This proves how popular Cinderella's Castle really is. Just a few entries after Barrie posted about this most photographed object at Walt Disney World and here I am using this photo. I know many try to capture a unique view of the castle. I wish I could say I was trying to here. It just sort of happened and I will tell you about it soon.

Since I wanted my entries to be titled using the Epcot word of "innoventions", I want to share with you a very innovative software product I found. In my travels to many photography websites and forums, I saw other people putting lovely and informative virtual borders around their photographs. My inquires found most used various versions of Adobe Photoshop or Elements to do so. I searched for a less expensive (read: free) alternative. I finally found a product called BorderMaker by programmer Thijs Orbitz from the Netherlands. It fit my needs perfectly.

BorderMaker is very easy to use. The website has some screenshots with very little documentation but it only took me 10 minutes to get the results you see above. Before installing BorderMaker, you have to make sure you have the latest version of the Java Runtime Environment. Don't worry, it's not complicated. Once that is done, you can download and install BorderMaker with ease.

With BorderMaker, you can easily create custom border templates you can save for reuse or to batch process a set of pictures. It can auto-select border and text colors depending on a photograph's color range. Other handy features let you convert a photo to other formats, show Exif data, apply sharpening, add watermarks and even resize the processed image. In the example below, I let BorderMaker choose the border and text color initially. I changed the bottom two lines of text to red. I found the Indy font online and stretched the bottom border to accommodate all the text. The software made this very easy to do.

Click for Larger Image. Copyright © Scott Thomas Photography 2007
Another BorderMaker Example. © Scott Thomas Photography 2007

Now, how did I get the image of Cinderella's Castle? About 20 minutes after sunset this past May, I got on the Tomorrowland Transit Authority (most old timers still call this the WEDway People Mover) for a leisurely ride around Tommorrowland. As I came upon the first turn past Stitch's Great Escape, I noticed Cinderella's Castle silhouetted against the pre-twilight sky and took a picture. The first one didn't come out to well as my ISO setting was at 200 so the shutter speed was too slow. I got a very blurred image. I quickly bumped up the ISO to 400 and took a couple of practice shots before entering Space Mountain. From those shots I was ready. Upon coming back out above the Tommorowland Terrace Noodle Station, I went to work. Zooming in a bit, I took a series of shots with this one coming out the best. Some photos call for a title, this one was easy: "Castle at Dusk". I think the virtural border gives the added attention this photograph deserves.

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About August 2007

This page contains all entries posted to Picture This! in August 2007. They are listed from oldest to newest.

July 2007 is the previous archive.

September 2007 is the next archive.

Many more can be found on the main index page or by looking through the archives.